PICTURE YOURSELF IN…

St Lucia

BY BREKKE FLETCHER

With the onset of spring, travel fever hits me hard. Where can I go? What can I do? When can I go? How long can I stay? Inspiration is almost too abundant, but the answer can always be found in the ancient Greek maxim, nosce te ipsum. Know thyself.

This self-knowledge, randomly, can also be found in answers to poorly constructed, multiple choice security questions, mind-bogglingly still used by airlines
(I'm looking at you, United).

What is your favorite vacation spot? The beach.

What is your favorite warm-weather activity? Swimming.

So, when I woke up on Sunday, the spring equinox hit at 11:35am and I started feverishly googling to pin down where I should go.

I pictured myself on a white-sand beach, my sunscreen-slathered face turned towards the sun, squinting at turquoise water, glinting, in constant motion, yet perfectly calm. I see myself wade into the sea, dip below the surface and emerge, floating on my back.
I marvel at the peaks rising into a cloudless blue sky.

Then boom, there it was. Precisely the place I'd
been picturing. St Lucia!

When I say this island has everything, I mean it. Unparalleled beauty, limitless activities and experiences, fascinating history, unbelievable topography, fresh seafood, produce, herbs and most vitally, the most wonderful, laid-back, friendly and fun people.

One such exemplary St Lucian is Nasha Smith, Lonely Planet writer and island-born resident. I asked her a million questions about traveling to St Lucia – I always go straight to the top! – about her home, its storied history, culinary delights, as well as her own favorite spots, people, passions and pursuits.

Here's an excerpt of our epic and ebullient conversation last week. I hope you find her energy, expertise, passion, suggestions and experiences as inspiring and useful as I did. Now pack your bags!

Best Recs

Banging recommendations from St Lucia locals and other Lonely Planet people.

Eat

"The Bakes Ladies" in Castries is my favorite St Lucian hole in the wall. I refer to them as the bakes ladies because there's no official name. But having no name is what makes it so special and authentically Lucian. You can just ask someone in the area, and they'll direct you. They're located on the corner of Coral and Victoria Street and you can get a quick local breakfast of bakes with different fillings, accras and local juices. And it's all fried right in front of you. I always stop by and make sure to take all of my friends visiting St Lucia to experience it! – Cinelli, Digital Content Creator

See

Pigeon Island Beach is a private-ish beach. You have to pay a few dollars to access it. The white sand and clear waters make it the perfect spot to read a book while enjoying a Piton beer, the local light lager. Perfect on a hot day. – Alfred Lorenzo Ruiz, Director of Audience & Engagement, Lonely Planet

Read

An absolute "must-read" is A History of St Lucia. I love this book because I love being able to fit myself in the story. A lot of research went into this collaboration. It is a valuable resource. – Nesa Constantine-Beaubrun, CEO, CHI Relocation Concierge

Listen

I love the song "Saint Lucia We Love" by Mongstar. It was released shortly after I had moved to New York. And though I was really excited about the new chapter, I was very home sick and the song just brought me comfort. Knowing that I wasn't alone in that feeling, and that "I must come back," as the song says. A reminder that home is always home. – Ashley Skerritt, singer and songwriter

Petit Piton is one of my favorite places to hike because it has a level of difficulty that most people would not attempt. So it's very quiet when you get to the top and not as busy as Gros-Piton. The climb makes me feel very accomplished every time I do it. The fact that you get a 360 degree view of the island is breathtaking. Pebble Beach is another beautiful hike. The scenery is otherworldly. The whole vibe just makes you feel so alive and on top of the world. It's also the first place I have ever seen cotton grow naturally. You can actually watch massive waves crash up close because you're sheltered by a huge rock. That's my homeland. 758 [The island's local area code - a popular call out on the island.]] Yeah man! – Jn Louis Mathurin aka Father Nature, hiking and outdoor specialist

Q. Where are you from in St. Lucia?

A. I was born in the capital Castries and lived there for the first 18 years. Then I moved to the north where I now live. In between I lived in the US for ten years. Then I did a tour of Europe: The UK, Prague, Belgium, Germany, Spain, Greece.

I can go to as many places as possible, but nothing replaces the magic of St Lucia for me. You leave and you realize not everybody has beaches at their disposal or the same types of beaches. And the food, even when it's similar, just tastes that much better at home. No matter where I go, I know I will wind up back on St Lucia.

Q. Do you have a few fun spots to eat, drink and be merry?

I live close to the Rodney Bay strip, which is easily the epicenter of any kind of nightlife and entertainment. You will find all kinds of cuisines. The biggest party in St Lucia (other than Carnival) happens every Friday night in Gros Inlet. And it's finally coming back in April after being mostly during the pandemic.

The best way to mix with locals is at the Gros Islet Friday night party or at the Anse La Raye Friday night fish fry.

The locals typically start early in the afternoon, pulling out their grills and their coolers. By the time the sun starts going down, you start hearing the music: some Soca, some Calypso and some Dennery Segment. You don't need a club because it's literally just on the street.

There's also the Anse La Ray Fish Fry on Friday nights, which is similarly pumping, with music and dancing – and fish!

Q. What foods are quintessentially St Lucian?

A. We eat a lot of green figs, which are green bananas, with salt fish. Together they comprise the national dish of St Lucia.

We also eat a lot of yams and sweet potatoes, but neither are what some tourists expect to see when they visit the market. Sweet potatoes are not orange, they're a light greenish hue. And the yams are not purple here. They are yellow or white. Visitors should expect these little differences.

Freshness is important. My grandmother, who lives across the street, has a lime tree and grows the herbs she cooks with.

Of course, fish is abundant and a staple. We also eat a lot of stewed meats – a perfect accompaniment to the starchy root vegetables. There's also a huge pork community. I don't eat pork, but I'm in the minority.

Q. Are there "touristy" things that people should seek out?

A. There's rarely a place in St Lucia that is "touristy," because the locals are there, too. Like a drink at the Rusty Parrot, it's a very local establishment.

The Pitons are just fantastic. The ruins at Pigeon Island Park: spectacular. You will learn a lot about the history of St Lucia.

Sugar Beach is breathtaking, with truly white, powdery sand. And take a sunset cruise aboard the Pearl. I always tell people to do that, because even if you don't make it out to the Pitons, you will see the true beauty of St Lucia when you're on the water.

On a clear day, you can see Martinique and St. Vincent from the fort in Pigeon Island.

Q. And a few of your personal favorites, if you don't mind?

A. Go to Plas Kassav. It's a small hut and bakery where they make cassava bread, and you can see the process of how it's made. I love that place so much.

Belle Vue has hidden waterfalls, which is a bit difficult to reach unless you're up for a challenging hike.

And the chocolate, cocoa actually, has been part of our history for a long time, like since the 1700s. You must try some cocoa tea, which is not tea, but we call everything tea. As long as it's a hot drink, it's basically a tea to us.