 | Soak in the views from Dubrovnik's ancient city walls | | | | | Jolanda Vitaljić's cooking class feels less like a course and more like a dinner party. On a recent visit to Split, Croatia, my wife and I found ourselves in a studio apartment with Jolanda and our guide, Marija Joka Restovic. We sat eating olives from Jolanda's family grove while clams steamed on the nearby stove, cutting boards and utensils strewn across the table between us. We talked in the manner of strangers thrust into sudden intimacy, lingering over topics like her past as chef at some of Split's top restaurants or the way the yearly olive harvest easily turns into a party of rakija (a kind of fruit brandy popular in the Balkans). It was one of many moments during our trip to Croatia where I was reminded how travel can bring people together, however briefly, and leave lasting memories. Before we left Jolanda's cooking studio, she gave us a copy of her cookbook with a few restaurant recommendations scribbled inside the front cover. To talk through my experience more (and to keep the holiday vibes going) I recently caught up with Mary Novakovich, whose latest book My Family and Other Enemies details her life and travels in Croatia's hinterland. We talked about what continues to draw us – and so many others – to Croatia and she also shared some invaluable travel advice for anyone interested in a future visit. | | | | | Best places to go in Croatia | | | If you're short on time, coastal Croatia has some of the country's most iconic sights, such as the crystalline Adriatic Sea and ancient fortifications. Here are Mary's top picks. | | Take a hike in Paklenica National Park | | | | | | | Walk along Dubrovnik's city walls. The admission fee is pretty steep (about US$32), but taking in the city from this perspective is definitely worth it. | | | | | Take a boat trip. The islands of Kornati National Park and the Elaphiti islands near Dubrovnik are best seen from the water. Hire a boat to dive, snorkel or swim these islands' lapis waters. | | | | | Go for a hike in the Velebit mountain range. Paklenica National Park and Northern Velebit National Park hold some of the country's best hikes. | | | One perfect week in Croatia | | Diocletian's Palace is the center of life in Split | | | | | | | Ferries link the main coastal areas, a great way to get around. | | Hotels are a common choice, but rentals can be great for families. | | Don't miss cracking open a bottle of Istrian wine. | | | Why not take the hassle out of trip planning and work with Elsewhere (a Lonely Planet company)? Their local experts take care of everything, from booking hotels to planning excursions. | | | It's easy enough to fawn over Croatia, but writer Mary Novakovich has it down to an art. Read on to find out what she loves most about the country. | | | | Savor some peka, one of Croatia's national dishes | | | | | Tell me a little about yourself. | I've been a travel writer for nearly 25 years, and I first fell in love with Croatia when I spent a summer there in 1976. My Serbian parents were both born in the region of Lika, and that's where they sent me as a child to reconnect with my roots. I've been going back ever since. | | | What do you wish more people knew about Croatia? | There's so much more to the country than the resorts and islands along the Adriatic coast. There's a whole new world once you head inland – the rivers, canyons and mountains of the Lika region and northern Dalmatia, the waterways and marshlands of Kopački Rit and Zagreb's fantastic cafe culture, just for starters. | | | | | Don't miss swimming, cycling and hiking in Mljet National Park, an easy day trip from Dubrovnik. | | | What should visitors keep in mind when planning a trip to Croatia? | Think about the time of year. July and August are peak months for high prices, big crowds and very hot weather. June and September are generally the most pleasant times to visit. Bear in mind that most Adriatic resorts are seasonal and lots of hotels and restaurants close for the winter. | | | What's the best way for visitors to connect with Croatians? | Learning just a few words of Croatian is always appreciated, even if you can't understand the answers. And get to know Croatian food: be adventurous and don't just go for familiar things on the menu. It's such a fundamental part of the culture, so do some research beforehand. | | | | | "Many people aren't quite prepared for the jaw-dropping beauty of the country, especially the vivid blue of the Adriatic coast and its incredibly pretty, Venetian-style villages." | | | What's your favorite iconic Croatian experience? | This summer it became much easier to visit parts of southern Dalmatia thanks to the opening of the long-awaited Pelješac Bridge that cut out the need to go into Bosnia's tiny slice of coast. The villages and wineries along the Pelješac Peninsula are so much easier to visit now. | | | Anything else not to miss? | | | This email was sent to you by: | Lonely Planet Publications Ltd. | 1101 Red Ventures Drive, Fort Mill, SC 29707 | | | |
