Very few places on earth capture my romantic imagination or stimulate my memory like the Amalfi Coast. I will attempt to describe the scene as it unfolds in my head: The winding roads, the colorful cliff-side homes and hotels, the expanse of azure sea and stunning matching sky, lemon trees everywhere, the scent of fresh rosemary on my fingertips, snacking on chips while sipping an aperitivo at sunset, climbing up up up 1500 stairs from Positano to hike the Sentier degli Dei (the Path of the Gods) and its literally breath-taking, life-changing views of the elegant, craggy coast and the island of Capri. I was lucky enough to stay at Le Sirenuse in Positano (in the off season, mind you), one of those picture-perfect postcard places that meets every expectation and then surpasses them. I ate linguine al vongole at Chez Black by the black-sand beach, I put lemon on absolutely everything and drank 425 Aperol Spritzes (or is it Aperols Spritz?). My friend Rebecca and I shelled out the big euros to hire a car to drive us along the harrowing route to Ravello. Our driver, Giuseppe (aka Pepe, a hoot and an absolute darling), expertly navigated each deadly curve, shouting at the other not-so-expert drivers ("como se dice, dick-ah-head?"). I can't stop smiling – or marveling at my good luck – each and every time I think of my week on the Amalfi coast, from my first pizza in Naples to my last breakfast at Le Sirenuse. My experience, however, is just one. To dive a little deeper into the romance, charisma and character of the Amalfi Coast, I contacted travel writer Paula Hardy, who has contributed to many Lonely Planet guidebooks on Italy, and whose expertise in the country is rivaled only by her palpable enthusiasm for the Amalfi Coast's stunning natural beauty and singular romantic atmosphere. What most surprised me when I spoke to Paula is that the Amalfi Coast isn't only for the rich and famous – it's for everyone. |
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Q. How do you know the Amalfi Coast so well? |
A. I spent my teenage years in Libya, which was once an Italian colony, and we'd always go on holiday to southern Italy Then I spent a year in Naples learning Italian. My friends and I would spontaneously pile in the car and drive to Amalfi before dawn, coming down that amazing winding road. The physical beauty of Amalfi is something that really cannot be underestimated. |
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Q. What's the best way to take in that beauty? |
Definitely being outdoors. There are some incredible hikes and trails, like the famous Sentiero degli Dei (Walk of the Gods). A shorter, less well-known walk is the Sentiero della Sirenuse (the Walk of the Sirens, so called because this area is where the Sirens lived in the Odysseus epic) between Sant'Agata and Sorrento. There's also a lovely walk from Nerano to its beach at Marina del Cantone and then east towards the Marine Reserve of Punta Campanella, the tip of the peninsula. |
| You don't need to drive. The buses are really easy and everybody uses them. |
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Q. Do you have a favorite town? |
A. Nerano is my favorite. Book the Villa Fiorella, even if it's just for a meal and spending the night there. It's worth it! |
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Q. What other sites and experiences do you recommend? |
A. The gardens at Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. If you're into food, a visit to Agriturismo Turuziello where they make mozzarella. Otherwise, one of the best things to do is hire a boat and cruise the coast (you can get one in Sorrento or get up early and simply hop along the coast on the ferries/hydrofoils). |
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Q. Isn't the Amalfi Coast really expensive? |
A. There are fabulously expensive places to stay, of course, but I think you can still stay fairly cheaply in a really nice B&B or a hostel and still still enjoy the glamour. |
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Q. Should visitors tack on a trip to Pompei? |
A. If you're pressed for time, think really hard about that, because Pompei is massive and can be very hot, crowded and so exhausting. If that's your thing, go for it. But maybe go to the ruins on Capri, where you won't be completely frazzled and dedicate a whole day to it. |
| October is the best month to travel to Italy. Still warm from summer and less crowded. |
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Q. What is the quintessential Amalfi Coast experience? |
A. Being in touch with nature, hiking, walking, swimming in the sea, going to a concert or a fabulous meal. It's the simple life. That's where the real magic is. |
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| Our friends at Elsewhere have created the ultimate southern Italy itinerary, showcasing some of the most spectacular experiences along the Amalfi Coast, like limoncello tastings and a boat trip to Capri. |
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With 13 towns along the Amalfi Coast, Paula's suggestions for where to eat, stay, play and party will guide you towards an absolutely stunning holiday. |
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My favorite part of the Amalfi Coast is the Massa Lubrense, which is the very tip of the peninsula (directly overlooking Capri) to the southeast of Sorrento. It is made up of 18 hamlets, but the main one is Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi, so-called because it is positioned between the two gulfs. |
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Il Postino brings a sense of nostalgia and showcases the cinematic beauty of Southern Italy. |
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 | Relax |
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One of the best beach clubs on the coast is Arienzo Beach Club. To reach it you get a boat from the main pier in Positano, and the boat ride is a big part of the whole adventure. When you get there, order a white wine, which is served with chilled peaches. The boat ride back also gives you a gorgeous view of Positano. It's a perfect Amalfi day out. |
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| How could the Amalfi Coast possibly be made more beautiful? |
Download this PDF to learn about the art and history from Lonely Planet's new Experience Italy book |
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Where do you want to picture yourself? |
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